Pawbuilder -

Consult Date

Name *

First

Last

Dog Name(s) *

Email *

General Notes

Supplies Needed

High value treats (cheese, hot dog, etc)
Gentle Leader or Halti Head Halter
Freedom or Easy Walk Front Clip Harness
Kong (Classic)
Kong Wobbler or Petsafe Kibble Nibble
Petsafe Twist n' Treat
6 Foot Leash
Treat Pouch (or alternative)
Double Clip Leash
Long Leash (30 foot)
Squeaky Toys/Rope Toys
Drag Leash (shortened lightweight leash)
Peanut Butter or alternative
Clicker
Other

Supplies Description

if necessary

BEHAVIOR OBSTACLE #1

1. PERCEPTION

Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"
Lunging/Barking at other strangers on leash, "Reactivity"
Fighting, attacking, biting, overcorrecting other dogs in public (off-leash)
Snapping, growling, biting at unknown humans in public
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human guests at home
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human household members (non-resource related)
Barking, snapping, growling, fighting, biting at dog household members (non-resource related)
Growling, snapping, or biting human household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Growling, snapping, fighting or biting dog household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Excessive pulling on leash
Not coming when called
Not paying attention when distracted in yard or in public
Chasing household cats (or other behavior related to household cats)
Lack of impulse control
Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable
Barking/overexcited when someone knocks/rings doorbell
Counter surfing
Panics when left alone
Other (See Below)

1. PERCEPTION: Additional Details

if necessary

1. ACTIONS: Lunging/Barking at other dogs or people on leash, "Reactivity"

Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Use "Golden Treat"
Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Practice Auto Check-in Exercise
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Find safe socialization outlets
Other (See below)

Auto Check-In Instructions: Click Here.

1. ACTIONS: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Have assortment of exciting hidden toys that dog rarely has access to. As guest steps into home, either you or guest hands them toy. This may take off "top-end" excitement.
Give something else to do (Kong stuffed with peanut butter, etc). It can help to keep several Kongs pre-stuffed and frozen.
Time-Outs: keep leash on (either held or dragging). When front paws come up, quickly use leash to firmly but gently remove from room for 20-30 seconds then bring back out. Repeat until jumping ceases. If four feet on the floor, guest can give attention.
Teach "Place-Stay".
Ask guests not to knock/ring bell - text when they arrive instead.
Put dog in another room/in yard until guest is settled in.
Desensitize doorbell/knocking. Several times a day, randomly ring doorbell/knock while tossing treats, repeat until barking ceases. Can also give Kong stuffed with peanut butter and ring bell/knock until dog stops leaving Kong.
Tire them out as much as possible before guests arrive.
Other (See below)

1. ACTIONS: Excessive pulling on leash

Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Use No-Pull Harness (eg. Freedom Harness or Easywalk)
Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Alternate between "working" and "non-working" walk. When head halter or no-pull harness is being used, allow to pull (as long as it is safe). At various intervals on your walk, switch to martingale collar and do random turn exercise and/or stop/start exercise.
Stop/Start: When dog reaches end of leash, stop and resume walking only when they alleviate tension.
Pace Change: When dog starts to surge forward and is about to extend to the end of the leash, start slowing down, stopping, or turning the other way BEFORE there is tension. When dog alleviates tension, begin moving forward again.
Use "Golden Treat"
Random Turn exercises (give turn signals!)
Work on Auto Check-ins (looking at you without saying name or giving signal)
Work on Hey Bartender (looking at you when you say name or give signal)
Treat and praise when dog is walking at your side.
Use your voice to engage your dog in between treating.
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Real-life rewards
Tire out before walks (fetch, tug, etc)
Long leash (20-30 ft)
Other (See below)

1. ACTIONS: Growling, snapping, or biting human household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)

Practice: Ring bell or make other unique sound when your dog is distracted or in a different room, reward generously with high value treats scattered on floor when they come to you. Do this a few times a day.
Food bowl/chew toy training - when dog has food bowl/chew toy, toss high value treats at them from a far enough distance that the dog remains relaxed. If the dog stiffens/growls at any point, you are too close. Continue until dog finishes with item, if possible.
Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) Protocol - always ask dog to sit or do a small task in exchange for giving them what they want.
Other (See below)

1. ACTIONS: Additional Details

if necessary

1. THE WILL: Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"

Always carry a variety of treats of different values and make them easy to access! May need treat pouch.
Remember that improvement is progressive - if your dog is reacting 100% of the time to dogs that are 20 feet away, then only reacting 90% of the time is improvement. When you get to 90%, you can then work on getting to 80%, and so on.
Think of this issue as a video game where you need to get your dog past annoying creatures safely - some of the creatures may be smaller, further away or less scary - maybe a quiet chihuahua minding her own business at a good distance away. When you are able to get past those pesky chihuahuas will you be able to take on bigger challenges - and those might get you at first, but with time and practice, they will become easier.
Don't get discouraged! You may be making progress over a few weeks then there may be an incident where your dog has a meltdown. That doesn't mean it's not working! Try to identify what might have been different about that situation.
Remember your leash technique is crucial! Stand between your dog and whatever your dog is likely to react to. Keep the leash short but held with slack and no tension - you are trying to give just enough freedom where if they make a mistake and lunge, you still have control. If they pull forward they should not be able to reach their neck much further past your hip before reaching the end of the leash.
When holding leash keep your elbows close to your body and use your core/legs as much as possible to manage any lunging behavior.
Don't put too much pressure on yourself - it can be complicated and often, the world (and other dog owners) won't help you! Don't be afraid to do whatever you need to do to avoid a situation that you don't feel ready for - hide behind cars, go down side streets, whatever you need to do to make things easy for yourself. Remember, you're learning just as much as your dog is!
Congratulate yourself every time that you even bring treats with you! That's more than most do!
Patience! Go slow - remember the goal is for your dog not to fuss over the head halter. Taking your time with conditioning may make all the difference long term so don't rush it! Several very short sessions (2 or 3 min) in a day is usually better than one long session. Try to make a game out of it!
Other (See Details)

1. THE WILL: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Set yourself and your dog up to succeed! Remember they are likely extremely excited - like a kid who just got to Disney World, it's probably going to be very hard for them to "sit" still! If you can redirect that excitement onto something else, that will be the easiest way to address the problem.
Remember this is a good problem to have! Much better than the alternative of barking at/snapping at guests!
You need to take control of the situation and "train" - that means letting your guests know that you are working on the jumping and that you will be doing "Time-Outs" or other recommended Actions.
Don't expect guests to be that helpful!
When you have a guest over, the tendency is to want to be hospitable and attend to the guest! For that reason, if you are able to let guests know you want to work on your dog's jumping before they come over, that might give you more space to do so.
Make sure you have an assortment of appropriate hidden toys at the ready!
Have a plan for alternate activities for your dog to do while your guests are over - prestuff Kongs, etc.
Set up "treat stations" that you can quickly grab treats to do doorbell/knocking practice!
Consistency! Time-outs won't work if you only do them half the time.
Understand that their energy has got to come out somewhere - try to expend as much of it as possible before guests arrive!
You CAN teach things like "Place Stay" but you will need to be committed to consistent practice - remember it goes completely against their inner emotion of excitement, so it will take effort from both of you!
Other (See Details)

1. THE WILL: Additional Details

if necessary

BEHAVIOR OBSTACLE #2

2. PERCEPTION

Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"
Lunging/Barking at other strangers on leash, "Reactivity"
Fighting, attacking, biting, overcorrecting other dogs in public (off-leash)
Snapping, growling, biting at unknown humans in public
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human guests at home
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human household members (non-resource related)
Barking, snapping, growling, fighting, biting at dog household members (non-resource related)
Growling, snapping, or biting human household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Growling, snapping, fighting or biting dog household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Excessive pulling on leash
Not coming when called
Not paying attention when distracted in yard or in public
Chasing household cats (or other behavior related to household cats)
Lack of impulse control
Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable
Barking/overexcited when someone knocks/rings doorbell
Counter surfing
Panics when left alone
Other (See Below)

2. PERCEPTION: Additional Details

If necessary

2. ACTIONS: Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"

Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Use "Golden Treat"
Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Practice Auto Check-in Exercise
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Find safe socialization outlets
Other (See below)

2. ACTIONS: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Have assortment of exciting hidden toys that dog rarely has access to. As guest steps into home, either you or guest hands them toy. This may take off "top-end" excitement.
Give something else to do (Kong stuffed with peanut butter, etc). It can help to keep several Kongs pre-stuffed and frozen.
Time-Outs: keep leash on (either held or dragging). When front paws come up, quickly use leash to firmly but gently remove from room for 20-30 seconds then bring back out. Repeat until jumping ceases. If four feet on the floor, guest can give attention.
Teach "Place-Stay".
Ask guests not to knock/ring bell - text when they arrive instead.
Put dog in another room/in yard until guest is settled in.
Desensitize doorbell/knocking. Several times a day, randomly ring doorbell/knock while tossing treats, repeat until barking ceases. Can also give Kong stuffed with peanut butter and ring bell/knock until dog stops leaving Kong.
Tire them out as much as possible before guests arrive.
Other (See below)

2. ACTIONS: Excessive pulling on leash

Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Use No-Pull Harness (eg. Freedom Harness or Easywalk)
Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Alternate between "working" and "non-working" walk. When head halter or no-pull harness is being used, allow to pull (as long as it is safe). At various intervals on your walk, switch to martingale collar and do random turn exercise and/or stop/start exercise.
Stop/Start: When dog reaches end of leash, stop and resume walking only when they alleviate tension.
Pace Change: When dog starts to surge forward and is about to extend to the end of the leash, start slowing down, stopping, or turning the other way BEFORE there is tension. When dog alleviates tension, begin moving forward again.
Use "Golden Treat"
Random Turn exercises (give turn signals!)
Work on Auto Check-ins (looking at you without saying name or giving signal)
Work on Hey Bartender (looking at you when you say name or give signal)
Treat and praise when dog is walking at your side.
Use your voice to engage your dog in between treating.
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Real-life rewards
Tire out before walks (fetch, tug, etc)
Long leash (20-30 ft)
Other (See below)

2. ACTIONS: Additional Details

if necessary

2. THE WILL: Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"

Always carry a variety of treats of different values and make them easy to access! May need treat pouch.
Remember that improvement is progressive - if your dog is reacting 100% of the time to dogs that are 20 feet away, then only reacting 90% of the time is improvement. When you get to 90%, you can then work on getting to 80%, and so on.
Think of this issue as a video game where you need to get your dog past annoying creatures safely - some of the creatures may be smaller, further away or less scary - maybe a quiet chihuahua minding her own business at a good distance away. When you are able to get past those pesky chihuahuas will you be able to take on bigger challenges - and those might get you at first, but with time and practice, they will become easier.
Don't get discouraged! You may be making progress over a few weeks then there may be an incident where your dog has a meltdown. That doesn't mean it's not working! Try to identify what might have been different about that situation.
Remember your leash technique is crucial! Stand between your dog and whatever your dog is likely to react to. Keep the leash short but held with slack and no tension - you are trying to give just enough freedom where if they make a mistake and lunge, you still have control. If they pull forward they should not be able to reach their neck much further past your hip before reaching the end of the leash.
When holding leash keep your elbows close to your body and use your core/legs as much as possible to manage any lunging behavior.
Don't put too much pressure on yourself - it can be complicated and often, the world (and other dog owners) won't help you! Don't be afraid to do whatever you need to do to avoid a situation that you don't feel ready for - hide behind cars, go down side streets, whatever you need to do to make things easy for yourself. Remember, you're learning just as much as your dog is!
Congratulate yourself every time that you even bring treats with you! That's more than most do!
Patience! Go slow - remember the goal is for your dog not to fuss over the head halter. Taking your time with conditioning may make all the difference long term so don't rush it! Several very short sessions (2 or 3 min) in a day is usually better than one long session. Try to make a game out of it!

2. THE WILL: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Set yourself and your dog up to succeed! Remember they are likely extremely excited - like a kid who just got to Disney World, it's probably going to be very hard for them to "sit" still! If you can redirect that excitement onto something else, that will be the easiest way to address the problem.
Remember this is a good problem to have! Much better than the alternative of barking at/snapping at guests!
You need to take control of the situation and "train" - that means letting your guests know that you are working on the jumping and that you will be doing "Time-Outs" or other recommended Actions.
Don't expect guests to be that helpful!
When you have a guest over, the tendency is to want to be hospitable and attend to the guest! For that reason, if you are able to let guests know you want to work on your dog's jumping before they come over, that might give you more space to do so.
Make sure you have an assortment of appropriate hidden toys at the ready!
Have a plan for alternate activities for your dog to do while your guests are over - prestuff Kongs, etc.
Set up "treat stations" that you can quickly grab treats to do doorbell/knocking practice!
Consistency! Time-outs won't work if you only do them half the time.
Understand that their energy has got to come out somewhere - try to expend as much of it as possible before guests arrive!
You CAN teach things like "Place Stay" but you will need to be committed to consistent practice - remember it goes completely against their inner emotion of excitement, so it will take effort from both of you!
Other (See Details)

2. THE WILL: Excessive pulling on leash

Understand that this is one of the most exciting times of day for your dog, of course they are going to want to engage in the environment! Let them sniff and enjoy themselves!
Make sure you always bring high value treats on your walks!
Be patient! Teaching good leash walking skills is truly a marathon not a sprint - focus on getting one or two minutes of attentive "working walk" at a time at first.
Be kind to yourself and your dog! This ain't easy for either one of you.
Use your tools - whether a no-pull harness or head halter, they aren't going to work if you don't put them on! Even if you are just taking them to the car!
Remember a no-pull harness is designed to work with the leash clipped to the FRONT. Of course, do what works best for you but understand that if you clip the leash to the back it will not prevent pulling!
Understand that you can also use "real-life" rewards - for example, allowing them to sniff a spot they really want to sniff or chasing a squirrel can be powerful ways to reinforce good behavior!
Other (See Details)

2. THE WILL: Additional Details

BEHAVIOR OBSTACLE #3

3. PERCEPTION

Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"
Lunging/Barking at other strangers on leash, "Reactivity"
Fighting, attacking, biting, overcorrecting other dogs in public (off-leash)
Snapping, growling, biting at unknown humans in public
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human guests at home
Barking, snapping, growling, biting at human household members (non-resource related)
Barking, snapping, growling, fighting, biting at dog household members (non-resource related)
Growling, snapping, or biting human household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Growling, snapping, fighting or biting dog household members over resources (food, toys, space, beds, attention)
Excessive pulling on leash
Not coming when called
Not paying attention when distracted in yard or in public
Chasing household cats (or other behavior related to household cats)
Lack of impulse control
Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable
Barking/overexcited when someone knocks/rings doorbell
Counter surfing
Panics when left alone
Other (See Below)

3. PERCEPTION: Additional Details

If necessary

3. ACTIONS: Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"

Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Use "Golden Treat"
Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Practice Auto Check-in Exercise
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Find safe socialization outlets
Other (See below)

3. ACTIONS: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Have assortment of exciting hidden toys that dog rarely has access to. As guest steps into home, either you or guest hands them toy. This may take off "top-end" excitement.
Give something else to do (Kong stuffed with peanut butter, etc). It can help to keep several Kongs pre-stuffed and frozen.
Time-Outs: keep leash on (either held or dragging). When front paws come up, quickly use leash to firmly but gently remove from room for 20-30 seconds then bring back out. Repeat until jumping ceases. If four feet on the floor, guest can give attention.
Teach "Place-Stay".
Ask guests not to knock/ring bell - text when they arrive instead.
Put dog in another room/in yard until guest is settled in.
Desensitize doorbell/knocking. Several times a day, randomly ring doorbell/knock while tossing treats, repeat until barking ceases. Can also give Kong stuffed with peanut butter and ring bell/knock until dog stops leaving Kong.
Tire them out as much as possible before guests arrive.
Other (See below)

3. ACTIONS: Excessive pulling on leash

Bring variety of high-value treats on walks (use treat pouch)
Use No-Pull Harness (eg. Freedom Harness or Easywalk)
Condition Gentle Leader/Halti
Alternate between "working" and "non-working" walk. When head halter or no-pull harness is being used, allow to pull (as long as it is safe). At various intervals on your walk, switch to martingale collar and do random turn exercise and/or stop/start exercise.
Stop/Start: When dog reaches end of leash, stop and resume walking only when they alleviate tension.
Pace Change: When dog starts to surge forward and is about to extend to the end of the leash, start slowing down, stopping, or turning the other way BEFORE there is tension. When dog alleviates tension, begin moving forward again.
Stop/Start: When dog reaches end of leash, stop and resume walking only when they alleviate tension.
Use "Golden Treat"
Random Turn exercises (give turn signals!)
Work on Auto Check-ins (looking at you without saying name or giving signal)
Work on Hey Bartender (looking at you when you say name or give signal)
Treat and praise when dog is walking at your side.
Use your voice to engage your dog in between treating.
Teach Find-It game - toss treats in grass and encourage to sniff. Once learned can use to get past distractions.
Real-life rewards
Tire out before walks (fetch, tug, etc)
Long leash (20-30 ft)
Other (See below)

3. ACTIONS: Additional Details

if necessary

3. THE WILL: Lunging/Barking at other dogs on leash, "Reactivity"

Always carry a variety of treats of different values and make them easy to access! May need treat pouch.
Remember that improvement is progressive - if your dog is reacting 100% of the time to dogs that are 20 feet away, then only reacting 90% of the time is improvement. When you get to 90%, you can then work on getting to 80%, and so on.
Think of this issue as a video game where you need to get your dog past annoying creatures safely - some of the creatures may be smaller, further away or less scary - maybe a quiet chihuahua minding her own business at a good distance away. When you are able to get past those pesky chihuahuas will you be able to take on bigger challenges - and those might get you at first, but with time and practice, they will become easier.
Don't get discouraged! You may be making progress over a few weeks then there may be an incident where your dog has a meltdown. That doesn't mean it's not working! Try to identify what might have been different about that situation.
Remember your leash technique is crucial! Stand between your dog and whatever your dog is likely to react to. Keep the leash short but held with slack and no tension - you are trying to give just enough freedom where if they make a mistake and lunge, you still have control. If they pull forward they should not be able to reach their neck much further past your hip before reaching the end of the leash.
When holding leash keep your elbows close to your body and use your core/legs as much as possible to manage any lunging behavior.
Don't put too much pressure on yourself - it can be complicated and often, the world (and other dog owners) won't help you! Don't be afraid to do whatever you need to do to avoid a situation that you don't feel ready for - hide behind cars, go down side streets, whatever you need to do to make things easy for yourself. Remember, you're learning just as much as your dog is!
Congratulate yourself every time that you even bring treats with you! That's more than most do!
Patience! Go slow - remember the goal is for your dog not to fuss over the head halter. Taking your time with conditioning may make all the difference long term so don't rush it! Several very short sessions (2 or 3 min) in a day is usually better than one long session. Try to make a game out of it!

3. THE WILL: Jumping on guests/strangers, overexcitable and/or barking at doorbell/knocking

Set yourself and your dog up to succeed! Remember they are likely extremely excited - like a kid who just got to Disney World, it's probably going to be very hard for them to "sit" still! If you can redirect that excitement onto something else, that will be the easiest way to address the problem.
Remember this is a good problem to have! Much better than the alternative of barking at/snapping at guests!
You need to take control of the situation and "train" - that means letting your guests know that you are working on the jumping and that you will be doing "Time-Outs" or other recommended Actions.
Don't expect guests to be that helpful!
When you have a guest over, the tendency is to want to be hospitable and attend to the guest! For that reason, if you are able to let guests know you want to work on your dog's jumping before they come over, that might give you more space to do so.
Make sure you have an assortment of appropriate hidden toys at the ready!
Have a plan for alternate activities for your dog to do while your guests are over - prestuff Kongs, etc.
Set up "treat stations" that you can quickly grab treats to do doorbell/knocking practice!
Consistency! Time-outs won't work if you only do them half the time.
Understand that their energy has got to come out somewhere - try to expend as much of it as possible before guests arrive!
You CAN teach things like "Place Stay" but you will need to be committed to consistent practice - remember it goes completely against their inner emotion of excitement, so it will take effort from both of you!
Other (See Details)

3. THE WILL: Excessive pulling on leash

Understand that this is one of the most exciting times of day for your dog, of course they are going to want to engage in the environment! Let them sniff and enjoy themselves!
Make sure you always bring high value treats on your walks!
Be patient! Teaching good leash walking skills is truly a marathon not a sprint - focus on getting one or two minutes of attentive "working walk" at a time at first.
Be kind to yourself and your dog! This ain't easy for either one of you.
Use your tools - whether a no-pull harness or head halter, they aren't going to work if you don't put them on! Even if you are just taking them to the car!
Remember a no-pull harness is designed to work with the leash clipped to the FRONT. Of course, do what works best for you but understand that if you clip the leash to the back it will not prevent pulling!
Understand that you can also use "real-life" rewards - for example, allowing them to sniff a spot they really want to sniff or chasing a squirrel can be powerful ways to reinforce good behavior!
Other (See Details)

3. THE WILL: Additional Details